MART IN THE HILLS

Hillwalking in the 1980’s – My First Mountain, Great Gable and Wasdale, no gear and no idea!

Posted on April 17, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

Everyone remembers their first mountain, mine was 32 years ago when my mate Alan suggested we drive up to a place called Wasdale in the Lake District. We were staying at my late Grandads bungalow near Blackpool, Alan’s parents were holidaying at the towns Norbreck Castle & we had the use of their Austin Allegro for a week. For anyone who doesn’t remember the Austin Allegro we think it was some sort of motorcar; heavy, underpowered & mostly crap. Luckily this one had a handbrake problem too; which was nice!

I was 20 yrs old, the year was 1981, Raiders of the Lost Ark was at the pictures, Bucks Fizz won Eurovision with ‘Making Your Mind Up’; Hitchhikers Guide & Brideshead Revisited had their first ever TV episodes, Bryan Robson became the most expensive UK footballer at £1.5 million, and Daylight Saving Time was introduced in Russia, (I love Google).

MONTAGE HIGHLIGHTS FROM 1981 (click to enlarge)

I’d been to the Lakes once as a baby (not on my own of course) and didn’t return again until earlier in 1981 the day Charles & Dianna got married, now if anyone gets the chance to travel back in time to visit the Lakes then do choose that day as it was nicely deserted! I went with my Dad, driving a Mini Metro (apparently also some sort of motorised vehicle) and remember looking up at the hills over Coniston thinking they looked great but never imagining I’d spend so much time in the coming years wandering over them in tight Ron Hill trousers & knee supports.

Anyway back in sunny Blackpool Alan had suggested driving up to the Lake District and walking up something called ‘Great Gable’ which sounded good to me mainly as it had the word ‘great’ in it. So off we went up the M6 taking the A590 route along the coast then up via Duddon Bridge and Ulpha along Austhwaite Brow to be met with that sudden striking panorama of big mountains, (apologies in advance for the quality & content of these photos)

My first ever Lakeland mountain photo, from Austhwaite Brow August 1981

The road dropped down through Eskdale and on to Santon Bridge taking the right turn at the Inn for the road up to Wasdale Head. Surely nobody can fail to be impressed by the dramatic scenes that unfold as you drive up this single track, even the sheep must become emotional as they gaze chomping grass at the beautiful Wasdale skyline. Great Gable looks every inch like a mountain should do, with the whole panorama framed by blue water & the Screes plunging (good word) down to the waters edge. We stopped for photos before arriving at Wasdale Head noticing the inviting white pub nestled (another good word) seductively by the stream, (it’s like bloomin poetry this) .

It was soon time to get our walking clothes on and ‘unpack the gear’. It is highly possible that we pioneered minimalism in 1981;-

Clothes – Me in Jeans, long sleeved Cotton Shirt, Acrylic Jumper & barely showerproof short Plasticy Jacket thing, Alan clad in sensible Corduroy trousers ( famed for their ultra water absorption), Woolly Jumper & short orange sweat-bucket Cagoule.
Food & Drink – 2 packs of Crisps, 2 Mars bars, 1 Yorkie & 2 cans of Coke.
Gear – Alan had his Dads canvas fishing rucksack. Erm that’s all, no…we had boots too!!

Aged photo of the wonderful view down Wasdale ascending Great Gable in 81

Aged photo of the wonderful view down Wasdale from Great Gable in 1981

This walking lark was all new to me whilst Alan had hiked with the internationally famous Peterlee & District Fell Club. He looked at a map which all seemed a bit girly to me; after all the mountain was clearly in front of us! He said there was a red dotty line indicating a path going to the far left; well I didn’t know anything about mountains but from where we stood at the bottom I could clearly see the top, and it was clearly straight up…..so that’s the way we went. Quite why Alan agreed to this route remains a mystery lost in time, the views however will remain etched in the memory as we struggled upwards gazing at the lengthening horizons. Experienced hillwalkers become accustomed to this, but back then it was a new experience and I remember stopping often to stare back over glistening Wastwater at the ever expansive vistas, hoping my A level English would come in handy one day.

We stumbled up Gable and eventually reached the top, it was certainly quite an experience, I remember Alan pointing at things saying names like ‘Pillar’, ‘Steeple’ and ‘Scafell Pike’ (this last one didn’t sound quite as impressive).

Me aged 20 on my first mountain Great Gable, dodgy gear, hair & moustache!!

I discovered many things up there, that mountains have many false tops, that route finding is more complicated than straight up, that mountain tops are colder and that on this one you could see forever. We sat up there for ages, drank the final half of our liquid supplies (the second can of Coke) then made our way down to that white pub we’d noticed at the start. This was of course the Wasdale Head Inn and I discovered many things down here; that it was the birthplace of UK rock climbing, that beer and food taste even better after a mountain day, and that this seemed the best pub in the world – as many pubs do after a fine mountain day 🙂

After a refreshing pint we slowly drove south leaving Wasdale behind, which just didn’t feel quite right;. Over the coming years we discovered another thing, that this feeling never eases for this is one of those places you never want to leave.

Rather than return the same way to Blackpool along the winding coastal route Alans big girlie map suggested a quicker route over Hardknott Pass which seemed straightforward. So off we headed in the incredibly heavy underpowered Allegro, becoming a little confused as to exactly where the Pass started until we spotted a car stuck high up at an unusually steep angle with it’s passengers unloading suitcases from the roof before trying to push start it. We had found the pass!!

Looking up Hardnott Pass 1981

It certainly provided an added ‘interesting’ experience after Gable featuring intermittent stops due to the Allegro overheating, made more exciting by the defective handbreak, it seemed the car didn’t want to leave this area either, all good fun of course 🙂

The last look back down from Hardnott at the end of an excellent day

And so ended a long eventful day that would eventually shape my life for ever more. Possibly not the most sensible way to start hillwalking however we left feeling we had achieved something all by ourselves. It was another 2 years before we got back to the Lakes as hill trips were rare until gradually the hillwalking bug took hold. Yet despite many trips over the coming years I never ever got to stand on Great Gable again.

Until last year, on a walk from Gatesgarth over Haystacks we made a quick diversion for the 30th anniversary of that first mountain. We stood on Gable once again gazing down over Wasdale contemplating how our lives had changed over 30 years!! For one thing we had waterproofs and a compass:-)

Finally back on Gable after 30 years Jan 2012

Finally, happily back on Gable after 30 years Jan 2012, more gear, less hair!

Safety Note – everyone has to start somewhere and our inexperienced ill equipped expedition was at least reserved for a clear warm day and luckily we had no problems. Conditions however can change rapidly in the hills and the best way to start hillwalking is to carry the right gear with someone experienced to show you how to use them;

List of Recommended Gear Not Taken;- Rucksack, Compass, Whistle, Torch, Walking Trousers, Hats, Gloves, Proper Waterproofs, Survival Bag, Walking Poles (never seen for years), mobile phone (not invented for years), GPS (only astronauts had this), oh and some suitable food & drink always helps 🙂 Enjoy the hills everyone, thanks for reading.

PS Short quirky piece here all about Alan & Hillwalking Companionship🙂

Posted in Lake District, The Early Walks 1980 - 2000 | Tagged eighties, first hill, first mountain, Great Gable, Lake District, pint, Scafell Pike, Wasdale, Wasdale Head, Wasdale Head Inn | 21 Comments

Snowy Haweswater Skyline Circuit – Selside Pike, Branstree, Harter Fell, Mardale Ill Bell, High Street and Kidsty Pike

Posted on April 11, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

Another chance of a Sunday Lakes day brought the usual shite Sunday weather forecast however this time the decision making point at the pub on Saturday night saw a welcome late improvement. This Lakes trip was definitely on, and the route even agreed before the second pint, which was really impressive:-) We would head over to Haweswater and tick off a couple of awkwardly located new Wainwrights and then hopefully add a few more old familiar ones, there might even be some sun!!

We drove over from Hexham late as usual though looking forward to an extra hour of daylight, the plan was Selside Pike & Branstree then on to Harter Fell and hopefully round to Kidsty Pike which would make a skyline circuit. The first two Wainwrights were new to me so I lazily left the route to my mate Alan who’d done them many years ago before the Wainwright list was publicised. Driving along Haweswater brought memories back of my last time there 30 years ago during drought conditions of August 1983 when the low water revealed the submerged village of Mardale, we even stood on the island that day.

We parked near the small Mardale Head car park at the end of the Reservoir beginning the walk at 11.50am by heading back eastwards along the road before starting up for Selside. When Alan did these they were far less visited with barely any paths so he had just slogged directly up from the road, the only slight problem in doing this today was the amount of snow up there and having been stopped by deep virgin snow recently in the Cheviots I was keen to choose an easy ascent. So we carried on to where the Rowantreethwite Beck goes under the road and then through the wooden gate, where we had an all too brief discussion on the route before Alan was away up a small path to the right, so I followed gaining height quickly and giving some belting views.

Back to the starting point at the top of the valley, views to Harter Fell, Ill Bell & High Street

12.15pm We’d walked from the road end, views to Harter Fell, Mardale Ill Bell & High Street

The path soon petered out to a sheep track and we were quickly into snow, Alan went right so I went left following small snow footsteps which progressively got smaller. Turned out these were made by deer but it did make foot placing easier before I started floundering wondering whether to get the axe out. We could by now see an easy path zig zagging on the far side of the stream so it wasn’t the cleverest of starts 🙂 The sensible route then is through the gate, cross the stream to the left then ascend keeping the stream on the right.

That moment when you realise you’ve gone the wrong way but just have to carry on

Classic use of the walking axe – or rather non use

At last some decent slopes with pretty awesome views, Kidsty Pike top right is the intended destination

1.30pm at last some decent slopes with awesome views, Kidsty Pike top right, the destination

Soon the ground levelled a little over Mardale Common and the day started to feel good with the weather even better than forecasted, the snow was gloopy but looked superb. This video with unexciting commentary captured the scene;

Setting off again over a patch of annoying grassy tussocks we zig zagged carefully up snow slopes onto the broad dome topped by a shelter on Selside Pike. Views here were limited due to the flat ground and heavy haze so after a quick bait stop on this unremarkable top we headed west following the fence to Branstree. The snow really did look wonderful.

1.50pm The fence path from Selside up to Branstree top middle, Harter Fell top right

Sitting on Branstree having a cuppa, Selside is behind me to the left looking east

2.25pm Sitting on Branstree having a cuppa, Selside behind me to the left, looking east

The route heads down to the head of the Gatesgarth pass then up diagonally right towards Harter

2.40pm the route heads down to the head of Gatescarth Pass, up diagonally right towards Harter

Haweswater from the ascent up Harter Fell

3.20pm Haweswater during the ascent up Harter Fell

The Gatesgarth Pass plunges down to Mardale

Gatescarth Pass plunging down to Mardale

My slight lack of hill fitness showed as we trudged up Harter Fell with the snow having proved really hard work so far causing a slow start to the day. There was concern over whether we’d have enough daylight for the full Mardale skyline walk so decided on a very brief stop on Harter but ended up stopping on the far side for the superior views.

Doing that thing I do - probably Twitter

3.50pm Harter Fell, doing that thing I do – probably pics to Twitter

3.50pm Impressive view of the walk ahead down then up Mardale Ill Bell, High St & Kidsty

From the same spot looking south west over Froswick & Ill Bell part of the Kentmere Round

We descended to the top of Nan Bield Pass, meeting a guy with skis then a group of chatty but clearly mental mountain bike riders who explained that somersaulting over the handlebars was much better in snow due to the softer landing. Some logic there maybe?

4.10pm The angle changes as we head north west, looking down to Small Water

It was after 4pm and looking down we saw a group of teenagers heading up in T shirts, hardly any gear, it was a bit of a concern as they followed for a short while only. We think they were just nipping up Mardale Ill Bell, good thing too as it was already getting colder.

4.30pm looking back over Nan Bield and Harter Fell

Froswick & Ill Bell peeking over lovely snow shape wavey thingies

5pm Tired on top of High St and nearly (but not quite) no more ascent left

5pm Tired on top of High St but relieved there’s little ascent left

Heading down from High Street, to follow skyline over Rampsgill

5.15pm Alan heading down from High Street to follow the skyline over Rampsgill Head

On Short Stile, looking back up to High Street

Not much further to go but the tiredness was setting in, perfectly illustrated in this video panorama featuring a really couldn’t be bothered commentary 🙂 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvXsEUMqsGg

5.45pm Kidsty Pike ahead, just this final ascent left then it's downhill

5.45pm Alan nearing Kidsty Pike ahead, just this final ascent then it’s downhill

6pm on Kidsty Pike looking back to High Street

6pm Me on Kidsty Pike looking back to High Street

On Kidsty Pike behind me are the days first hills Selside Pike & Branstree

Behind me are the days first Wainwrights, Selside Pike & Branstree

Reaching Kidsty at 6pm was a welcome relief with us both agreeing it was quite enough ascent for the day. It was windier and colder now after the really mild day but I couldn’t be bothered to add layers so zipped the hood up and stuck a Buff & gloves on. The hands got a bit nippy but as always after 10mins of descent you are comfortable and glad at not needing to stop to take something off. It was a rapid descent and my knees were really feeling it so this was a rare case where an Ibuprofen top up was needed on the hill to soothe those dodgy knee joints.

We had both carried crampons and axes all afternoon without the real need to use them, I later found a map of the Cheviots in my sack too which was also luckily not required:-) Felt comfortable in only two layers all day and my ancient Berghaus Yetti Gaiters were revived especially for the snow and kept my feet almost dry.

Start/Finish Mardale Head Car Park
7 1/2 hours (starting at 11.50am, finishing 7.20pm)
11.1 miles (17.86 km)
3,991 ft (1,216m) of ascent
Pint & food at Blacksmiths Arms, Talkin nr Brampton
Thanks for reading

Click on the map below for the interactive Route on Social Hiking, note a better route up Selside Pike could be to take the path marked above the word ‘Mardale Common’.

Click on the map for the full Haweswater Skyline Circuit Route Map

Posted in Lake District | Tagged Branstree, Gatescarth Pass, Harter Fell, Harter Fell route, Haweswater, High Street, Kidsty Pike, Lake District, Mardale Common, Mardale Head, Mardale Head circuit, Mardale Head route, Mardale Ill Bell, Nan Bield Pass, Selside Pike, Social Hiking | 2 Comments

Winter Wainwrights afternoon – Barrow and Outerside plus Ard Crags and Knott Rigg – (inc snow posing tips)

Posted on March 23, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

Last Sunday involved an escape to the Lakes for the first time since mid November! Now thats a long time to be Lakeless, 18 weeks in fact or 126 days! This included three failed attempts this year which were cancelled at the last minute due to shite Sunday weather – the guy on the telly actually used the phrase ‘shite Sunday weather’, so it must be meteorological or something?

Forecasts the day before suggested yet more ‘shite Sunday weather’ so there was much discussion in the pub on Saturday evening over options. My mate Alan had only seen the unreliably miserable gloom laden BBC national forecast which had promised incessant plagues of lemmings up north, so he favoured the softer choice of a Hadrians Wall walk followed by late pub lunch. I’d seen the more reliable Met Office forecast which was a mixture of cloud, snow and cloud, slightly improving. That was good enough for me as I was desperate to get to the Lakes AND for once the forecast didn’t deteriorate on Sunday morning, so the Lakes were confirmed and off we drove from Hexham in no particular rush hoping for possible clear spells later.

Assuming there would be limited if any views we narrowed the route choices to picking off some less spectacular Wainwrights including Ullscarf & High Raise (Plan A), Ard Crags & Knott Rigg (Plan B), or the 4 tops north of Skiddaw inc Great Cockup (Plan C). As we drove westward on the A66 the Ullscarf Plan was soon discounted as the central mountains were pulling the cloud down, so we decided on the Gt Cockup ones (Plan C). Then as we neared Keswick a clearish patch over Grisedale Pike just became too inviting leading to a sudden complete change (Plan D) – and next minute we were parking in Braithwaite.

Plan D was to nip up new Wainwrights Barrow & Outerside, then if the weather was ok, carry on up Sail, Crag Hill, Eel Crag & possibly Grsisedale Pike (old Wainwrights), or if poor weather then just do the two Wainwrights then add another new one of either Binsey, Great or Little Meal Fell, (Plan E). We packed axes & crampons then started at 11.50am by heading straight for Outerside instead of up the Barrow ridge necessitating a quick reroute up the side then on to the pleasant little ridge.

Heading up Barrow 12.30pmiews over Braithwaite, Bassenthwaite & Skiddaw

Heading up Barrow 12.30pm, views over Braithwaite, Bassenthwaite & Skiddaw

Classic mountain posing (ruining a good view), over to Derwent Water

The inviting clear weather patch soon began to disappear as we gained height amid mutterings from Alan of “that could’ve been the best weather”, then a snow shower came in causing further mutterings of “definitely getting worse”.

In snow shower on way to Outerside in the distance

Enjoying a snow shower on the way to Outerside (in the distance)

Alan asked me a couple of times why we weren’t on Hadrians Wall heading to a nice warm pub however I insisted this was fun, we were in the Lakes and gonna enjoy it. Alan didn’t look convinced but he can be a miserable bugger sometimes 🙂

Approaching Outerside looking back over Stile End & Braithwaite

Once on Outerside we had a pit stop and performed some fine mountain posing whilst staring at the wintry greyness ahead, trying to decide whether to go up or back down.

Sail & Eel Crag from Outerside – wondering whether to carry on up or retreat

Grisedale Pike clear – for a minute at least

The weather improved slightly then came down again, it was looking like that sort of day. The photos flatter the conditions and as another snow shower closed in we both decided it wasn’t looking much fun up there in the snow clouds & probable ice, so we would retreat. Back to Plan E, we would nip back then drive over to bag a new Wainwright somewhere.

Snowing again whilst Alan descends Outerside

Snowing again whilst Alan descends back down Outerside

After 15 minutes descent the clouds taunted us by suddenly lifting and Grisedale Pike reappeared causing loud mutterings from Alan of “bloody typical it’s the afternoon improvement”. I disagreed yet it did feel kind of anti-climax even though we had probably set a new record for the most over equipped expedition to Barrow & Outerside 🙂

Descending – with Causey Pike behind

Descending down to Brathwaite - look theres sun down there!!

Nearing Braithwaite – look there’s sun down there!!

There was briefly some sun down in the valleys with Binsey looking promising, but behind us the weather had closed in again and by the time we got to the car at 3pm it was raining.

The camera makes this looks nice in the rain 🙂

Decision time again, pub, Binsey, pub, Meal Fell, pub? Well as we were in the area we decided on the Newlands two, Ard Crags & Knott Rigg, both awkward ones to fit in with other hills so it would be a good chance to tick them off. Actually the Met Office forecast had been spot on, rain showers in the valleys falling as snow in the hills, we wouldn’t get wet, just snowy, so let’s do it. We drove a short distance & parked at the layby at Rigg Beck quarry, leaving the car at 3.50pm heading along the path by the stream then realising that a better line would’ve been crossing the bridge at the quarry then straight up.

Ard Crags ahead, still raining however I do think that hill looks a nice inviting shape!!

It’s an Ard ascent 🙂 Robinson behind

Very nice view back down the ascent route – with Cat Bells above – and there’s some sun!!

And then, just as we approached the ridge; it happened…..a patch of clear weather that started spreading, with blue skies behind…..oh yeah this was gonna be fun!!

Robinson and blue sky, repeat blue sky!!

Robinson and blue sky, repeat after me – blue sky!!

Nearly up Ard Crags, looking back with Cat Bells & Derwent Water above

Top of Ard Crags looking back down the ascent route, Causey Pike left

Ard Crags in improving weather and that lovely ridge snaking to Knott Rigg

Walking the ridge to Knott Rigg, now this was nice, very nice!

High Stile & Red Pike in the distance, this really is pure fun

A little classic ridge walk

There were smiles all round with occasional excited yelping noises as we walked that ridge, it was bloody good and quite a surprise, we both really weren’t expecting much up here but it’s a cracking fun hill and despite being surrounded either side by higher stuff the views are extremely pleasant.

Top of Knott Rigg with an unexpected panorama

High Stile & Red Pike in the distance

No point looking at the view when you can play with your phone 🙂

Last lingerings on top

Setting off from Knott Rigg back up to Ard Crags then down to the stream below Causey Pike

Setting off from Knott Rigg back to Ard Crags then down to the stream below Causey Pike

Last look back to Ard Crags at 6.50pm

Interesting trip, it had started at home with me discovering my daysack didn’t have a decent axe attachment so out came the 40ltr Karimoor Hot Earth, last used 13yrs ago up Ben Nevis. I’d forgotten what a great sack this is and might take more stuff with me on day walks just as an excuse to use it 🙂 The day finished stupendously up on that wonderful ridge in dramatically improving weather, it also highlighted the beauty of doing Wainwrights is in taking you places you wouldn’t normally go; even Alan agreed it had been fun, well mostly:-)

The tops can be done from higher up on Newlands Hause, but surely this is better
Due to late planning we didn’t realise the usual descent is east down to the road
By doing lower hills for once, we had a completely different experience on Sunday
Despite conditions I never got the waterproof out, just my trusty Paramo Wind top
Beer & food after at Blacksmiths Arms, Talkin; great pint (& cheap) of Brampton ale!
This post achieved a new world record for use of the word ‘weather’
Apologies for me being in most of the photos this time, shameless posing 🙂

Click on the route map below to view, (needs amending), thanks for reading.

Barrow and Outerside plus Ard Crags and Knott Rigg Route Maps – click to view

Posted in Lake District | Tagged Ard Crags, Ard Crags and Knott Rigg route, Ard Crags route, Barrow, Barrow & Outerside route, Knott Rigg, Knott Rigg route, Lake District, Outerside, Social Hiking | 2 Comments

Cheviots Trip Report – Green Bumps; Barrowburn, Shillhope, Border Ridge, Windy Gyle, The Street and Heavy Artillery (12 miles)

Posted on February 18, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

After 3 months without a big walk circumstances & the weather finally came together and I made the 75 min drive up to the White Bridge at Slymefoot in the Upper Coquetdale Valley of the Cheviots. Having done most of the paths from there I was happy to recreate a classic route I’d semi-created back in November, but with a few diversions. The weather was pretty excellent, hazy in the distance feeling like Spring for most of the day & damn good fun.

Leaving the car a bit late at 11.25am I set off south east along the roadside, turning off again at Barrowburn Tea Room but then diverting south east straight up Shillhope Law. It’s a great little hill with excellent views & after 4 visits I’ve yet to meet anyone up there!

Looking west up the Coquet Valley & down to Barrowburn from near the top of Shillhope Law

Shillhope Law summit cairn looking north

A Skylark soared singing sweetly overhead, which was soon drowned out by impressively booming heavy artillery fire from the Otterburn range just south across the valley. You could see the odd puff of smoke rising and the barrage continued off & on for a few hours.

Upper Coquetdale west from the top of Shillhope, the military land is south of the river.

I retraced my steps down Shillhope then turned north to take in the green bumps mid right in the pic below. The route then goes up the snowy path through the small forest in the middle then up the snowy path past above right to meet the Border Ridge.

Looking to The Cheviot top right with the Border Ridge on the horizon & Windy Gyle top left

Descending from Shillhope, looking s east along the Usway Burn to The Castles & Batailshiel Farm

Looking back south at Shillhope

First green bump was ‘Kyloe Shin’, great name, crap bump. The next one was higher at 433 metres and again was perhaps not worth the diversion but what the hey it was great to get out and the views were never less than impressive. Descending to the Hepden Burn path this view suddenly emerged of the remote Fairhaugh Holiday Cottage ….

Fairhaugh below, the route goes far left to top middle

It was bloody brilliant to be up in sunny hills again however what with the diversions, Tweeting & picture taking, I still hadn’t travelled very far from Barrowburn, so it was good to get back on the path & start heading north through the small forest section to emerge on the nicely situated Middle Hill with it’s views of green bumpiness.

Descending from Middle Hill looking north, I nipped up Hazely Law on the right

Continuing the theme of picking off additional bumps I nipped up Hazely Law which at 499 metres was….quite unremarkable. I found a small bog getting back to the main path too.

Ascending Hazely Law looking back over Middle Hill with Shillhope in the distance

Now it was time to get moving and head up to the Border Ridge which turned into a bit of a slog due to the claggy snowed up path. In the Cheviot’s it’s usually best to keep on the paths as the surrounding terrain can be very unfriendly. The legs felt it here. I saw a cyclist heading off into the forest & that was the last person I would see till back in the car.

Looking north over the Border Fence on the Border Ridge & Pennine Way. Scotland 10ft away.

The Cheviot right & the Schill left, at the Border Fence, (slight shadow problem)

The sign points to Windy Gyle, well sort of.

The sign points the way west to Windy Gyle, well sort of.

The Border Ridge & Pennine Way with Windy Gyle summit cairn beckoning. Except this is a false summit 🙂

Heading up to Windy Gyle, looking back down the Border Fence to the lumpy Cheviot (weird shadow)

Summit Cairn of Windy Gyle ahead

It’s always pleasant reaching this summit even though today due to the extra height and lowering sun Windy Gyle lived up to it’s name with a cold wind cutting in. Time to whip out the Balaclava & Buff – good thing I was completely alone so no one saw me in the Buff.

Windy Gyle

Windy Gyle at 2,031ft (619 metres)

The view north from Windy Gyle on the Scottish border

Windy Gyle is the only hill in the WORLD to be listed as both a Scottish ‘Donald’ and an English ‘Hewitt’ & ‘Nuttall’. The stone shelter here is excellent though I didn’t stop long as I couldn’t be bothered to add extra layers:-) It was 3.50pm & I figured it was a 50 min stroll down to the car by the quickest route, or at the very least 90 mins of fast marching down the longer ancient drovers route called ‘The Street’. Sense prevailed for once, after all I’d had a good walk so there was no need to extend the day, I’d even be home at a sensible time for a change. This was a good plan….then I briefly thought that the extension might only add around half an hour. And in that brief moment the decision was changed, and the day got longer. Still I was sensible for at least a whole 2 minutes, a commendable attempt.

The fabulous view north from WINDY GYLE, a favourite.

I headed west straight after taking the above photo moving pretty fast to generate some heat, I’d kept fingerless gloves on for the usual food & photo tasks so my hands weren’t stinging numb for a change, just cold. 30 mins later I’d reached the junction with The Street & Pennine Way near Mozie Law.

Joining The Street drovers route, looking back at Windy Gyle now 30 mins away

The Street is an excellent path, most guides use this as the ascent route but I prefer to descend down here as it retains height and gives views almost down to the car.

Looking down The Street with the path ending down at Slymefoot mid picture. Shillhope in the distance

Sun setting west over the Border Ridge from Bought Law, just 10 mins down to the car

Sun setting west over the Border Ridge from Bought Law, just 10 mins more descent down to the car

If you like the far north Lake District hills then you should certainly enjoy the Cheviots. You won’t see too many people & it can be very peaceful, except on rare Otterburn Artillery days:-) This route was on mostly reasonable ground avoiding the notorious Cheviot bogs, I recommend it, click on the map below to zoom in/out.

12.3 miles (20 kilometres)
2,900ft (878 metres) of ascent on Viewranger
6 hours with a slow start and fast finish.
Start/Finish – Slymefoot/White Bridge, Grid Ref: NT859114, 6 miles north west of Alwinton on the singletrack road, half a mile past Barrowburn Tea Room. A small plaque named ‘Trows Road End’ marks the small parking area.

Note; if driving via the A697 (Morpeth – Wooler) then the B6341 is now the only way into Rothbury, as the B6344 road is closed from Weldon Bridge to Rothbury due to major landslips, possibly until 2015!

Take care on the single track road past Alwinton, there’s a few potholes usually covered by puddles. Thanks for reading 🙂

Social Hiking Route Map Cheviots Feb 17th

Windy Gyle Route Map Cheviots Feb 17th, click to zoom

Posted in Cheviot Hills | Tagged Barrowburn, Cheviot Hills, hiking, Shillhope Law, Slymefoot, Social Hiking, The Street, Trows, Upper Coquet, Windy Gyle, Windy Gyle route, Windy Gyle The Street | 9 Comments

Another Quick Wintry Walk on the High Section of Hadrians Wall

Posted on February 10, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

This was only my third opportunity to get out walking this year and once again the forecast of heavy rain or snow in the Cheviots meant a late change of plan. Instead of potentially becoming snowed in up the Coquet Valley, another quick dash on Hadrian’s Wall seemed a more sensible choice.

From my mate’s in Hexham I was soon parking at the Housesteads car park which experience has shown is possibly the coldest part of any Wall walk. It was certainly a gloomy cold sleety morning and the National Trust man sat in his van looking grimly resigned to a quiet day. The few people out were wrapped up in duvet jackets however I trusted my 2 layer system of long sleeved ancient capilene thermal vest with a hooded Paramo windshirt. The start is always cold then once moving up onto the Wall it feels just right. Unfortunately views were limited today, the pics are from my phone and a bit washed out but the slight wintry dusting adds interest.

From the top of Hotbanks looking west, phone held up high to look over the Wall

Above Crag Loch

Looking down over Sycamore Gap

Sycamore Gap, featuring erm the Sycamore

Looking down to Steel Rigg with Winshields Crags up past the trees

Nearly 4 miles from Housesteads is Winshields Crags, the highest point on Hadrians Wall featuring a welcome trig point, which I sat behind for a little shelter from the cold breeze.

Winshield Crags, the highest bit and can be a bit nippy

After a few Tweets, some photos, a Breakaway & a cuppa it was time to head back. I wore my fingerless gloves for these tasks but left my fingertips exposed just a little too long so the descent involved stinging hands and a few tears in the eyes till I warmed up.

Winshield Crags

Looking West

Heading down from Winshields looking east and the return journey

The dodgy downward sloping slippy steps through the trees

Hotbanks Farm looking west before the last uphill pull on the return

The many little stops taking pictures and trying to Tweet them had slowed me down so I had to get a move on back to Housesteads to make the last food order at the Dipton Mill. This was thankfully successful as that pint had my name on & so did the Tomato&Veg soup

Pint of Hexham Berwery’s finest Whapweazel, sat next to the fire

Essential part of the day, the Dipton Mill Country Pub,

Phil, the nice man at Social Hiking retweeted my live GPS recording of today’s walk and linked up my Flickr pics – I didn’t feel a thing! Click on the map below for the route. Have done this walk well over 150 times & never tire of it. Or the beer. Thanks for reading 🙂

Click for Hadrians Wall route, Houseteads to Winshields & back

Posted in Hadrian's Wall, Northumberland | Tagged Dipton Mill, Hadrian's Wall, Housesteads, Housesteads routes, Northumberland, Routes from Housesteads, Short walks on Hadrians Wall, Steel Rigg, Sycamore Gap, Winshields Crags | 6 Comments

SNOW – Extracts from the diary of an Englishman in the Highlands

Posted on January 22, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

(ok it’s not original, someone emailed me this yrs ago, but worth a laugh when snowy)

Extracts from the diary of An Englishman in The Highlands

December 20^th:- It’s started to SNOW! The first of the season & the first we’ve seen for years. The wife & I took our hot toddies & sat on the porch watching the fluffy soft flakes drift gently down clinging to the trees and covering the ground. It’s so beautiful & peaceful. How lucky we are to have moved from the south to the Highlands of Scotland.

December 24^th:– We awoke to a lovely blanket of crystal white glistening snow covering the fabulous landscape. Just what we always dreamed Scotland would be like. What a fantastic sight, every tree and bush covered with a beautiful white mantle. I shovelled snow for the first time ever and loved it! I did both our driveway and our pavement. Later a snowplough came along and accidentally covered up our driveway with compacted snow from the street. The driver smiled & waved. I waved back and shovelled it away again.

December 26^th:- It snowed an additional 5 inches last night and the temperature dropped to around -8c. Several branches on our trees & bushes snapped off due to the weight of snow. I shovelled our driveway again. Shortly afterwards the snowplough came by & did his trick again, much of the snow is brownish-grey with yellow patches!

January 1^s^t:- Warmed up enough during the day to create some slush, which soon became ice when the temperature dropped again. Bought snow tyres for both our cars. Fell on my arse in the drive, nothing broken but £100 to a Physio. More snow & ice expected.

January 5^th:– Still cold. Sold the wife’s car and bought her a Landrover to get her to her work. She slid into a wall and did considerable damage to the right wing. Had another 8 inches of the white shit last night. Both vehicles are covered in salt, iced up slush, locks are frozen solid and wiper blades are stuck to the screens. More shovelling in store for now. The bastard snowplough came by twice today.

January 9^th:– More fecking snow! Not a bush or tree on our property that has not been damaged. Power was off for most of the night. Tried to keep from freezing to death with candles and a paraffin heater which tipped over and nearly burnt the house down. I managed to put the flames out but lost all my eyelashes and eyebrows and suffered second degree burns to my hands. (Car hit a fecking deer on the way to the hospital and was written off.)

January 13^th:- Fecking bastard white shit keeps on coming down. Have to put on all the clothes we own just to get to the post box. If I ever catch that arsehole that drives the fecking snowplough I’ll chew open his chest and rip out his heart with my teeth. I think he hides round the corner and waits for me to finish shovelling and then comes down the road at 100mph and buries the fecking driveway again.

January 17^th:- 16 more fecking inches of fecking snow and fecking sleet and fecking ice and god knows what other kind of white shit fell last night. I managed to wound that bastard of a snowplough driver with an ice-axe but he got away. Fecking car won’t start. I think I’m going snow-blind. I can’t move my fecking toes, I think it’s frostbite. Haven’t seen the sun in weeks. More fecking snow forecast. Temperature -20 degrees C.

Feck this I’m moving back to SURREY!

Posted in Random Stuff, Scottish Highlands & Skye | 2 Comments

New Years Day Walk on Hadrians Wall – then ale at Dipton Mill Inn

Posted on January 2, 2013 by MART IN THE HILLS

Happy New Year everyone! I hadn’t been unleashed outdoors for 7 weeks, so was determined to grab a quick New Years Day walk on Hadrian’s Wall, before reluctantly returning to work.

This is my ‘training walk’ of 7.5 miles from Housesteads to Winshield Crags & back. Have done it over 150 times and will do a separate blog on the years spent up here, but this a quick ‘Trip Report’ as I haven’t posted for a while:-)

After picking my mate Alan up at Hexham we arrived at a cold Housesteads car park with the wind thumping against the car. There was none of the usual rush to get out and whip the boots on so we diverted ourselves by staring at the latest stage of the wind ravaged Visitor Centre refurbishment to add an extra floor (below),

Housesteads Visitor Centre, New Years Day 2013

We quickly got ready and headed round the Centre, through the gate and up the path past Housesteads Fort on the right to the main Wall path in the trees at the top.

Path from Housesteads Visitor Centre up to the Wall path and Fort

It’s always a slog to the top but is quickly reached & provides some shelter from that wind. We carried on down to Hotbanks Farm for the view to Crag Lough. I’d actually never seen it quite so full, there was a LOT of water around. We were heading to the highest point on the Wall, Winshields Crags, in the middle below.

Hadrians Wall looking to Crag Lough

The path continues above Crag Lough then looks down over the famous Sycamore Gap, known amongst other things for its appearance with Kevin Costner & Morgan Freeman in the film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves.

Looking across Sycamore Gap to Winshields top right

Sycamore Gap, Hadrians Wall

Looking west to Steel Rigg car park in the trees and Winshield Crags above

The highest point on Hadrians Wall is Winshield Crags (below) there’s a trig point, great views, and sometimes you see the Solway Firth glistening in the west. It’s also not far from the Steel Rigg NT car park & Twice Brewed pub on the Military Rd – which is nice. This is me showing off my new Montane Terra Pants, I’m like a model me like.

Winshield Crags trig point at 1,132ft, the highest point on Hadrian’s Wall

The view east, Alan sheltering from that wind, time to turn back

Sycamore Gap and Crag Lough from the west in low sunlight

More Sycamore Gap – it’s a nice place

Crag Lough

The path goes through the ‘tree section’ up the hill past Hotbanks Farm on the horizon

Hotbanks Farm through the tree section

Slippy steps through the trees, descend with care!

Due to a crucial business meeting we decided to take the “by-pass” path above Hotbanks Farm which runs parallel to the Wall path but is flatter & gets you back a little quicker.

The by-pass path heading east with the Visitor Centre mid right

Houseteads Visitor Centre from the rear

We had to dash to the car park & quickly get the boots off to make that business meeting. Now when I say ‘business meeting’ I actually mean ‘pub’, it’s so easily confused. Anyway the pub normally stops serving food by 2.15pm & we were cutting it short so hurried across to the Dipton Mill Inn south of Hexham (my favourite pub). Normally late lunchtimes here are quite civilsed with many of the customers having eaten and drifted off, followed by a few locals & walkers popping in for a pint. What we didn’t realise was that New Years Day is one of their busiest days with a guest Piper, Scottish Ditty Singer and a pair of singing Guitarists all taking turns to entertain. The place was absolutely heaving full of families & people I’d never seen before, becoming even busier as the afternoon drew on.

A heaving New Year’s Day pub

Dipton Mill New Years Day Piper

We managed to get very lucky and sneak on to the end of a table, ordered some butties and had a beer whilst chatting to a local couple and watching the entertainment unfold. We eventually had to leave around 4.30pm (during a song break) with our seats being immediately and gratefully snaffled up. We weren’t sure when it all ended but this was yet another excellent Dipton Mill experience with a great crowd and a great end to the day. (PS; They brew their own beer, I’m a Whapweasel fan).

My favourite pub

Click to see Housesteads to Winshield Crags Route Map

Posted in Hadrian's Wall, Northumberland | Tagged Dipton Mill, Hadrian's Wall, Hadrians Wall routes, Housesteads, Northumberland, Routes from Housesteads, Sycamore Gap | 5 Comments

Classic Cheviots Circuit from Slymefoot, Barrowburn, Border Ridge, Windy Gyle, Lamb Hill and Wild Goats. (15 miles)

Posted on October 28, 2012 by MART IN THE HILLS

It’s time for a Cheviot’s Report, and there’s nowhere better to start than on my favourite top Windy Gyle. I first visited the Cheviots 15 years ago doing the standard Cheviot & Hedgehope walk from Langleeford. The boggy peaty ground put me off so much that I didnt return for 13 years, however I’ve recently discovered there’s much more to the area than the Cheviot itself and this walk on Sunday Oct 21st was a perfect example.

One thing about walking up hills is that you never need to worry about whether you are “in the mood” or “up for it” as this is irrelevant, you just need to ‘turn up and things happen’, that’s my motto. My other motto involves red wine & chocolate but let’s stick to the first one. I certainly wasn’t up for this walk, I was tired & didn’t really want to get out of bed however the weather was due to be excellent so I was going walking whatever. My mood soon changed on the drive north with perfect autumn light, clear distant hills and remnants of mist hanging in valleys; today was going to be a good day.

Distance = 14.61 miles (23.5 km)
Duration = 7 hrs 15 mins, (start 9.50am, finish 5.05pm) inc 50mins on W Gyle
Total Ascent = 2,609ft (795m), max height Windy Gyle 2,031ft, 619m
Start/Finish = Trows Rd End Car Park, past Barrowburn
Date = Sunday 21st Oct 2012
Click on the interactive Route Map below to zoom in/out

Cheviots route anticlockwise from Trows;- Barrowburn, Clennell St, Border Ridge, Windy Gyle, Mozie Law, Beefstand, Lamb Hill

This walk starts half an hours drive past Rothbury, heading west up the superb Upper Coquetdale Valley passing Alwinton to the small parking area at Trows Rd End. Also known as Slymefoot it’s the site of an 18th century Inn reputedly a den of iniquity serving farmers with whisky from nearby illegal stills. There’s little sign of the pub now however it’s a fabulous spot with a choice of walks in 4 different directions excepting southwards as that side of the road’s reserved for the Otterburn Military Ranges.

Information Board at the TROWS/SLYMEFOOT parking area.

Leaving the car at 10.55am I set off east along the roadside, turning off at the Tea Room at Barrowburn and heading north along the Hepden Burn. I was trying a new approach so this was the first time up this path which made a gently steady ascent soon leaving the Burn and providing those typical rolling green ‘Chevioty’ views.

Looking back down the HEPDEN BURN to BARROWBURN in the Upper Coquet Valley, Shillhope Law far left.

After an hour you enter the Kidland Forest and as usual with coniferous forests I went slightly wrong, missing the straight path over Middle Hill by deviating down to the ford & remote holiday cottage at Fairhaugh. This may have been a good move as it turned out to be an interesting little forest glade. I soon ascended back up to the main path and eventually emerged out of the forest over the fence and up slightly to the imaginatively titled little bump ‘Middle Hill’ for the views northwards below.

12.10 pm – Martin on the Middle (well my sack is)! The route goes down past the shed left, then skirts up the right side of the trees on the left, up to the horizon.

12.22 pm By the hut is a signpost, these are actually pretty damn useful, I’m going right to left, to the Border Ridge.

At the signpost I joined the ancient drovers road named Clennel Street, where Scottish cattle & sheep were brought down to English markets. With the increasing height comes increasing views and the pic below looks back down over the route up.

From the horizon looking over the ‘Middle’ in the erm middle! Forest section behind. 12.35 pm

Due to the clear conditions just a little more ascent revealed the first exciting glimpses of Lake District fells 80 miles away on the south west horizon. Carrying on uphill for another 5 minutes brings you up to the Border Gate and the first views north. Also known as Hexpethgate or Coxlawgate the gate was in olden times used by cattle drovers and even smugglers. It lies on the Border Ridge which isn’t a true ‘ridge’ in Lake District or Highland terms but is still an impressive high route giving views in all directions and also forming part of the Pennine Way. To the right the Ridge stretches away up to The Cheviot and to the left it goes up to wonderful Windy Gyle.

The BORDER GATE on the BORDER RIDGE, looking east to THE CHEVIOT. 1.05 pm

The BORDER GATE on the BORDER RIDGE & PENNINE WAY, with Scotland on north side of the fence and WINDY GYLE in the distance. Nice place.

Turning left and joining the Pennine Way the path becomes paved which you soon become thankful for on this tussocky peaty soggy ground. It’s a steady incline past various historic cairns along the border fence up to the 2,031 ft summit of Windy Gyle, one of only 6 Cheviot hills over 2,000ft. On top is a huge stone cairn called Russells Cairn, named after Lord Francis Russell who was mysteriously murdered near here in 1585 after a Marsh Warden dispute. Reputedly a Bronze Age burial mound the cairn’s also a very welcome refuge from cold winds though to be fair it seems no windier than other summits. As it sits on the border, Windy Gyle is the only hill in the WORLD to be listed as both a Scottish ‘Donald’ and an English ‘Hewitt’ & ‘Nuttall’. I do like it up here and over the past 2 years have been up 8 times in all weathers including snow & darkness – though I didn’t know about the ‘burial mound’ bit before sitting here isolated on my own in darkness:-)

RUSSELLS CAIRN on WINDY GYLE, my sacks on the Scotland side (as the saying goes). 1.40 pm

The views are extremely pleasing, the best I have seen in the Cheviots particularly northwards and particularly at this time of year with the golds and greens.

The fabulous view north from WINDY GYLE, a favourite.

View from WINDY GYLE (right a bit) with the Schill & the Cheviot

This was the first time I’d seen the Lakes from Windy Gyle and also the first time I’d brought my decent binoculars which revealed a perfect outline of Skiddaw & Little Man, Blencathra, some more distant hills, then two big groups almost certainly the Scafell & Helvellyn ranges. Unfortunately none of these showed up on my camera phone. I spent around 50 minutes up here gazing at the views, chatting with some fellow walkers and eating an apple. The last bit didn’t take very long. Reluctantly I left the top and started heading west along the Pennine Way.

The view south from the Border Ridge after Windy Gyle. 2.40 pm

Further west where the Pennine Way reaches another old Drovers Rd, THE STREET. Windy Gyle in the background. 3.00 pm

At this point my normal route is to return south down ‘The Street’ another excellent Drovers path which stretches nicely across to the car at Trows. This time however there was just enough time to squeeze in a little extra mileage and still make it back by darkness so I carried on along the Pennine Way to do a section I’d only done once before and in dense cloud. Soon I’d reached the innocuous ‘Mozzie Law’ below, with it’s majestic erm summit wooden post thingy?

MOZIE LAW on the Border Ridge, an unassuming top. 3.15 pm

Despite seeing the pleasant views west to the Scottish border hills for the first time I still spent more time looking down at the thin line of peat threatened paving slabs, which is probably why I didnt notice passing over Beefstand ‘hill’, or that the sheep ahead werent sheep but the famous Cheviot Wild Goats.

CHEVIOT GOATS on the Border Ridge/Pennine Way. 3.35 pm

These goats are believed to be descended from the original goats introduced by the first farmers of the Neolithic period and apparently number around 100-150. (I Googled it).

The Great Goat Chief not looking happy

I’d only seen the goats once before and this time ended up walking through two groups around Beefstand and Lamb Hill (should be called Goat Hill).

Lamb Hill trip point looking west over Scotland. 4.00 pm

From Lamb Hill the path descends down to a well maintained mountain hut and another viewpoint over the rolling hills.

Yearning Saddle Mountain Hut. 4.15 pm

View west over the Scottish border from near the mountain hut. 4.20 pm

From here theres 3 alternative paths back to the Upper Coquet valley, I picked the northern one as it brings you down to the road nearest the car. Seemed a good idea but it wasnt a great path, more a sheep track though really well signposted. Wasn’t impressed with all the new fencing in this area containing lots of very bright metal strips reflecting the light. Due to the low sun this looked really awful looking east, once through this gate however I discovered a large area recently planted with deciduous sapplings so assume the fencing is to keep the deer off, as well as the sheep and goats.

Miles of new ugly reflective deer fencing. And I don’t mean it cost a lot 🙂

Once through the gate I regained the high ground to thankfully see that the way ahead was obvious, down to Carlcroft Farm and the road in the Coquet valley.

Late low sun illuminates the route ahead down to the road & river in the middle (next to the dark Carshope Plantation). You can just see some mist in the shaded valley. 5.20 pm

Now for the 30 min road walk, I’m sure there;s nothing sinister ahead? Hopefully? 5.40 pm

Looking back west through the eerie Coquet mist. Cue Twilight theme!

The road walk seems longer than the map suggests for some reason and it’s a relieving moment to at last glimpse the White Bridge and the car. It’s even more relieving when your car starts first time in this remote spot.

Posted in Cheviot Hills, Northumberland | Tagged Barrowburn, Cheviot Hills, Mozzie Law, Slymefoot, Social Hiking, Trows, Upper Coquet, Windy Gyle, Windy Gyle from Trows, Windy Gyle route | 15 Comments

Two Men Alone on a Mountain (only one does Twitter) – The Curious Tale of Sgurr Na Stri

Posted on October 18, 2012 by MART IN THE HILLS

Scotland Trip Day 4, Saturday night and one full day left in the Highlands. Driving back from the day’s fun on Waterstein & Neist we agreed it was crucial that once back at the guest house I immediately hooked up to the Wi-Fi and started checking forecasts so we could plan the final day.

So once back at the guest house I immediately started posting the days photos to Twitter & Facebook, followed by a few Twitter replies, interesting links, ooh and checking the BBC footy transfer gossip and er oh crap yes….forgot about the forecasts. Now my mate Alan doesn’t do Twitter, he hasn’t got a computer or a Smartphone so he tends to think this behaviour is in someway odd and annoying, he’s even accused me of being obsessed with my phone – which of course I’m not, I just like to keep it near, at all times. Anyway eventually I checked some weather sites and it wasn’t looking good, possibly improving later but best in Lochaber which was too far south. We agreed a definite plan….to wait until morning……to agree a definite plan.

Sunday morning brought the expected mixed weather with an uncertain forecast (once I’d updated Twitter) giving no obvious direction choice except a vague mention of possible cloud lifting mid afternoon. We discussed options over breakfast and this continued into the car; for once neither of us could work out what to do or where to go. This deferment continued as we drove along the superb single track road from Plockton to Kyle hoping for revealing views across to Skye. These views didn’t reveal much so we scanned the skies for bright patches until reaching that moment of decision…the T junction at Kyle. To the left was Glen Shiel with high mountains steeped in cloud, to the right lay the wonderful Isle of Skye with a host of options big & small…..the car turned right! The lure of Skye is difficult to resist.

Driving over the Skye bridge felt right but we still didn’t know what to do, the Cuillins looked grim and could be in cloud all day which would be a shame, Trotternish looked no better, and we had already been over to the west coast. So a decision was made…..to defer the decision until we got to the Sligachan Inn. As we drew nearer the weather didn’t seem quite so bad and just before reaching the Slig we had at LAST decided on a route, we were going to visit the remote rocky hill of Sgurr Na Stri.

Sgurr na Stri (Peak of Strife) is the fabled ancestral home of the Gaellic fairies. Ok no it’s not, it’s actually a 1,700ft steep coastal hill sitting at the end of a 7 mile path south from the Sligachan Inn and squeezed between the Cuillin Ridge, Loch Coruisk and Blaven. Due to its unique location and Alpine-like surroundings the views from its summit are considered by many to be amongst the best in the UK. The walk-in also promised amazing views and the route had been recommended by Twitter stalwarts @stewyphoto and @Barry_the_Cat.

The Cuillin (well the bottom half anyway) from the start of the walk

We were taking a weather gamble that the long low walk-in would give time for the Cuillins to become clear later in the day for those exciting views. There was mention of river crossings and bogs so we weren’t quite sure what to expect as we parked near the Slig and started the 7 mile walk-in hoping the recent rains wouldn’t cause problems.

Sligachan Bridge at noon

We hadn’t been walking long when we rounded a corner and met this threatening obstacle…….which made quite a nice picture.

Highland Coos with route behind. Sgurr Na Stri hidden to right of the small distant peak above c00s

Diverting round the shaggy coos we were finding the path surprisingly good and quickly caught up a group heading for Marsco followed by a photographer snapping away at the shrouded Cuillins. Every few minutes we convinced ourselves the cloud level was improving which involved lots of head lifting, pointing, muttering, frowning and more muttering; sadly the spectacular bits remained covered.

The long path snakes upwards behind me with Sgurr Na Stri still hidden

Looking from the path to Gillean, almost, nearly, possibly, not, becoming clear

A couple of miles past these two tarns the path starts to rise at last & the view changes.

Ascending the Druim Hain looking back to the Slig, now a tiny dot

So far the peak of Sgur na Stri had remained hidden, however after a few miles we ascended the higher col of Druim Hain to a cairn of stones revealing a new scene ahead.

Lower part of Loch Coruisk to the right and Sgurr Na Stri finally revealed to the left

A quick snack break here taking in the view, checking the cloud level yet again, before descending slightly before the last straightforward ascent of the peak itself. Now when I say straightforward I don’t actually mean straightforward as there is no path up SNS, you just fumble upwards expecting the top to be around every corner. Many mountains have this feature of course but this one’s unexpected and really annoying, Alan was by now getting very frustrated with the thing especially as the extra time getting up meant less time on the top. Eventually though the summit was reached and it was time to breathe. The views below from left to right…

From the summit over to Elgol and the mainland

Across to the start of the Cuillin Ridge, Soay Island behind

There were no people on Sgurr na Stri and after that 7 mile walk and irritating stumble to the top with plunging views downwards, you do feel solitary. Both Bla Bheinn & the Cuillin Ridge were still sadly shrouded & the views to out to sea and Rhum very hazy. There was no sign of improving weather it was just the same as when we started, yet the forecast had suggested improvement & we still believed in this, gazing down at the little boats.

An interestingly different view straight down, with the entrance to Loch Coruisk on the right

We started looking for excuses to stay up here longer, trying to get better angles for pictures, checking the landscape with the binocs, finding more food to eat etc. I consulted my “Pocket Guide to Posing Above Lochs” for this one…..

Mountain Man Unleashed

We still didn’t want to leave, not when there was always the chance that the cloud could lift and the full majesty of the Cuillins would be revealed. I faffed on trying to get some 3G reception by walking round in circles murmuring “got reception” then ”nah gone”, Alan kept shouting “its lifting” followed by “no its not”. My 3G reception is shite but I suddenly found some so tried posting a quick picture update to Twitter and Facebook, this continued for a while, the conversation went something like this;-

Me: Got reception, it’s just posting
Alan: I think it might be lifting
Me: Not sure, looks like…oh bollox, lost reception
Alan: Nah it’s not lifting, might as well head back
Me: Yeah hold on got reception again, it’s just posting
Alan: Well can we start back at least
Me: Nah if I move I’ll lose reception it’ll only take 1 minute to post
Alan: I think it might be lifting
Me: Think I’ve lost 3g again
Alan: Right come on let’s go
Me: Yeah just one more min, it’s at that final stage
Alan: Think we really need to go
Me: Final stage still, hey I think it might be lifting (playing for time)
Alan: Do you think?
Me: Yeah could be worth waiting a moment just in case
Alan: It’s not lifting is it?
Me: POSTED!! Phew
Alan: Ok, finally, lets go then….
Me: Yeah it’s just sending to Facebook now, this’ll be much quicker
Alan: Yer feckin jokin!
Me: Ok well lets get set to go, this’ll just a few more seconds.
Alan: It could rain you know looking at that cloud
Me: Not lifting then?
Alan: It’s the same as it’s always been isn’t it?
Me: Yup, POSTED, right lets bugger off

Alan then looked at his watch, a serious expression etched across his brow, we both knew we had overstayed our welcome in this mountain amphitheatre and we had reached that point where serious problems might be faced due to my phone delays. Alan’s voice uttered the words neither of us wanted to hear, “You do realise we probably won’t have time for a pint in the Slig now” This was an anxious moment, we discussed maybe phoning Mountain Rescue as a Sea King helicopter would surely get us back to the Inn for that beer.

Agreeing this was not an option we dragged ourselves away from the summit and picked our way across the hillside and up to the Druim Hain cairn. Pausing briefly to tighten laces & supp water we agreed we would head back fast and make a determined effort for that pint. Alan was immediately away whilst I fiddled with my knee supports, as you do. It took a while to catch him up and as we looked down again into the long valley and the long long path back we knew we really had to move it. We gave each other that silent stare that only true mountain men do…I said “Alan, have you farted?” He smiled proudly and set off like the wind, literally.

From the Drum Hain, Alan already quickly disappearing

I watched him for a second, adjusted my poles, had a wee, then prepared to walk fast, but wait.…what was that noise from my phone….the buggering battery was low & wouldn’t last the journey. Still this was certainly no time to faff on anymore, Alan wouldn’t be happy at any more phone related delays. After all, what’s more important, a friendship or a silly little phone with route tracking? So I whipped the back off, swapped the battery then switched it back on, reset the GPS position and the route tracking. Alan was by then a distant dot, I grimaced and set off feeling surprisingly good without my usual knee pain for once thanks to ibuprofen. I became at one with my surroundings, moving swiftly like a mountain gazelle (except there is no such animal), getting faster, stronger, almost running, constantly drawing the fast moving Alan in. I’d nearly caught him when my pole slipped, arm twisted & I nearly somersaulted. Winded & temporarily slowed I looked up to see Alan way ahead again…..the long legged bastard.

Eventually he stopped for a drink and I caught him up, walking straight past him shouting “PINT”…and we managed to continue without incident at a constant fast pace without stopping for an hour, overtaking some other walkers and taking a final photo looking back before at long last descending to the welcome sanctuary of the Slig. We were bang on time, went straight into the unexceptional bar & downed a pint.

Me looking like I’ve gained 4 stone during the walk. Discovered the top of SNS was just visible to the right of the far distant little peak (if you zoom in)

The welcome sanctuary that is the Sligg

Not a great bar but it does serve beer which is the main advantage – and location!

Now Alan had asked me a few times on the walk back if I was changing clothes before driving back, my stock answer was/is “probably, depends how much time’s left”. Alan doesn’t like this uncertainty; he likes to know for sure the ‘changing plan’ well in advance, hence the same question every 22 minutes. Personally I can live with being a bit more flexible on this 🙂

Back at the car any changing plans were thrown into disarray by a serious midge attack, there were thousands of the tiny buggers. Boots & clothes were too muddy to change in the car so we quickly grabbed stuff from the boot & separated to different corners of the layby. Anyone driving past would have seen two half dressed nutters hopping, swatting, running, shouting & swearing. The drive back to Plockton was characterised by sudden arm swattings as yet another midge emerged inside the windscreen. They were everywhere, some probably still there now studying my road maps plotting the conquest of England. They are coming!

A final look back – from the car, windows up due to the Midge invasion!

Having seen Stewart Smiths excellent trip report & photos of SGN (here) it’s clear we missed the grandeur on this one and hence it’s one we need to go back to. A very interesting day out and a great end to our June Highlands trip. After a final meal at the Plockton Shores we headed back to Hexham the next day taking that left hand turn at the Kyle T junction. Two weeks later I’d already booked a repeat visit in September. The End!

Distance = 15.5 miles (25 km)
Total Ascent = 3,720 ft (1,1341 m) – max height 1,722 ft
Duration = 7 hrs 40 mins – start 10.50am, finish 6.40pm
Start/Finish = just past the Sligachan Hotel on roadside layby
Date = June 24th 2012
Thanks for reading, have a drink on me 🙂

Click on the map to link to Social Hiking interactive route

Full walk description on Walk Highlands

Posted in Scottish Highlands & Skye | Tagged Loch Coruisk, midge, pint, Route tracking, Sgurr na Stri, Sgurr na Stri from Sligachan, Sgurr na stri route, Skye, Sligachan, Social Hiking, Tweeting on mountains | 22 Comments

Waterstein Head and Neist Point – in Search of Sun, Highlands Trip Day 3

Posted on October 13, 2012 by MART IN THE HILLS

Saturday morning started bright with patches of blue sky, however rain was expected to move in soon so once again it was time to scour the forecasts desperately in search of some inspiration. The bad weather was approaching everywhere with just a chance of something decent over the Hebrides. We couldnt go there, but we could certainly go west to Skye, so that’s where we headed.

We set off from Plockton with a brief diversion at Duirinish as the Highland Coos were in the village; Duirinsh is a great little place, split by a stream and is very very McQuirky.

Five minutes after leaving Plockton you drive through lovely Duirinish

Shaggies

Soon we were driving over the Skye Bridge, always a very happy event especially when there’s a rare patch of blue sky over Skye. The weather looked good over the sea and lowland areas however the mountain areas were already beginning to deteriorate.

Skye Bridge, always exciting, I can assure you the driver was looking ahead whilst taking this

We had a number of options with Sligachan being nominated as the decision making point as we could either walk straight from the car, carry on to Trotternish, or go westwards to the coasts. Unfortunately as we parked at the iconic Sligachan layby for the classic Cuillin view, things weren’t too great. Once again the phone camera really flatters the conditions below though the streaks of rain show up quite well. This was also forecasted to get worse.

The Black Cuillin (looking black) from near the Slig

The Red Cuillin, (looking black)

We arent just fairweather walkers but as we only get up to this area once or twice a year the thought of walking around in cloud and rain wasn’t the preferred choice, after all we can do that in the Lakes or Cheviots anytime 🙂 So we convinced ourselves to head west in search of the rumoured clear Hebridean skies. I’d been inspired by that surprisingly good coastal walk the day before on Sandaig, I really fancied the coast again & somewhere new.

Once past the Cuillins things slightly improved along the A863, as we approached Dunvegan we were nearly tempted by the greyed out MacLeods Tables but glimpsing a hint of blue sky further ahead decided to drive north west up the B884 and try a simple coastal walk to Waterstein Head. We parked just north of Ramasaig in uninspiring moorland and started walking up to the Head which didn’t take long on easy ground. Then I spotted something in the sky, it was big, circling and very definitely an eagle. Rucksacks were hurled on the ground, cameras fumbled for and pointed at the sky. I’ve only ever seen two eagles before and they are really difficult to take pictures of when flying at distance. It landed on the highest fence post and then lifted off soaring straight towards us, I then took two amazing photos, both of which have since won numerous awards, one was even shortlisted for the Countryfile Calendar and was the favourite of John Craven.

Wildlife Photography like this is a skill that few possess, it’s all about being in the right place at the right time of course then ensuring your depth of field settings correctly offset the backlighting to accentuate the feather textures and the birds wing colours.

I think you will agree that both of these skills are accomplished in the examples below which give new insight into the life of this impressive aerial predator;-

Spot the erm Eagle….

Clearly an Eagle….like thing

Like I said, photographing eagles is not easy, I eventually gave up and just watched this king of birds through the binocs. Soon it was far far away and we continued up to Waterstein Head where there’s a trig point sitting above 1,000ft cliffs plunging down to the sea. With sunshine now overhead the disappointing eagle pictures were compensated by the views from this spot across Neist Point out to the Outer Hebrides.

Sitting on Waterstein Head at 2pm, 1,000ft cliffs, Niest Point below, views to savour

We hoped in vain for the eagle to return, then lost track of time up there gazing at the sea with the binocs, the tiny dots of people on Niest, then crawling to the cliff edge looking straight down. Eventually we moved off for a walk south along the top of the cliffs, there was a line of cloud behind us with sun overhead stretching westwards which accentuated the views & colours. None of the pics are altered, this is just how the afternoon panned out.

Looking back to Waterstein Head & Neist with cliffs below

Looking straight down, keeping a tight grip on the phone!

Further along the cliffs, inspiring stuff

3.30pm. I had to train for years to pose like this!

Niest looked very inviting so rather than continue the walk south to The Hoe we decided to turn back at Ramasaig cliffs then drive over to the Point. On top of Ramasaig we got the binocs out again looking back at the route. The Hebrides unfortunately had been hazed out all afternoon which is a pity as they are very close from here and would have framed the blue sea nicely. We spotted a tiny white circular cloud of ‘smoke’ suddenly appear on the cliffs below Waterstein rising up then disappearing. This seemed a bit weird, then another one appeared, then I turned round and looked south to see the scene below. This was 20 minutes after the photo above.

3.50pm. Instant sea mist formation

There was no sign of mist anywhere else, it had literally formed below us instantly on the cliffs as we sat there! An amazing weather moment to add to the list of others.

Alan (looking fashionable), against the mist

3.54pm. Mist suddenly clearing

3.56pm Looking north to Waterstein Head

4 pm Waterstein Head

And then it seemed just as instantly the mist had all but gone as we started heading back to the car, then suddenly it came back again and started sweeping over the cliffs around us. Made a dramatic fun end to the walk and when back at the car I’d managed to get sunburnt too, hadn’t even thought about packing suncream in the morning.

Details of walking around Waterstein Head are here on Walk Highlands we only did the top half of the walk and were out around 3hours inclding much gazing and sitting.

I’d already booked a first visit to the Stein Inn for dinner at 7.30pm so there was still time for more fun, starting from the car park at Niest Point.

Neist Point from the lighthouse looking east

Interesting looking across to Waterstein Head cliffs, now completely enveloped in mist.

5.10pm from Neist Point Lighthouse over to our earlier walking route & Waterstein Head

Neist Point Lighthouse

The lighthouse sits on basalt rock with columns all around, apparently there’s a giant fog horn somewhere up there?

Neist Lighthouse

This is the most western point on Skye and a fantastic vantage point for wildlife including whales, not that we saw any. Met a nice Dutch couple, everyone was staring out to sea.

Wild Neist

More Neist basalt

On the way back we nipped up the highest bit for the best views, Alan also spotting a whale down below which of course turned out to be a patch of tidal rock.

Nice Neist

Then on to the Stein Inn for a much needed pint. Actually all pints are much needed but especially the first one after being outdoors. The Stein was in midge heaven (if you are into midges) and they had a nifty trick for keeping the little buggers out of the pub – they just leave the doors open! The locals must be immune but the tourists kept slapping their heads & swatting anything that moved. Pub was heaving, glad we had booked earlier, food was standard pub grub, beer nice. Like the Glenelg Inn the day before the Stein Inn is another rare gem of a proper pubby Highland pub. And so ended another great day, we drove back across Skye through grim weather happy. But what about tomorrow?

The Stein Inn

PS: Niest Point walk details here on Walk Highlands. PPS: Random info, scenes for the movie 47 Ronin with Keanu Reeves were filmed on the headland at Neist in Oct 2012.